Sonntag, 20. März 2011

And...we are back online!

In Turkey, any website that links to Youtube is currently banned.  There had been a dispute or two between Greece and Turkey, and Turkey claims that Greece was disgracing the ever-so-godly Ataturk (father of Turks -sp), thus the forced disabling of any website linking content to Youtube...but not Youtube itself (I could still listen to Talking Heads thank goodness).

You receive this lovely message covering up your entire web page.

Source: Wired
Wait wait, I know what you're thinking.

So Aaron, what the hell does this even mean? I can't speak gibberish!  Good question, I asked the same question the first twenty times when trying to log into my blog!  It means...

"Access to this site has been denied by court order !"

Here's the respected article, it's FOUR YEARS OLD!

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/europe/article1483840.ece

You'll come to find that ego means a lot in Turkey...

TURKEY - land of incredible landscapes, people, and cheap food (oh God, Salep).
Source: Microtap.de
In other news, I'm so happy to be writing again! 

Okay, so where to begin!

March 6th, 2011

I arrived in Turkey at around 01:00 - 02:00 and was promptly probed - okay not probed but the custom officials checked my Багаж (baggage).  The ex-pat from a few hours ago told me this process took about four hours for him because the officials decided to inspect every. single. bag.  The process took thirty minutes for our group - thanks to x-ray technology!  And yes, this was indeed my first time going over any border solo into a land where I don't speak a damn word.  

Note: This picture has nothing to do with the border, but it's a shot at the lights at night while entering Istanbul


I barely slept through the ride, and once we arrived into Istanbul - which is gargantuan, we were dropped off at the main Otogar - main bus station.  I don't think I've ever seen so many coach busses in my life, it was almost as if there was just a city the size of Kokomo dedicated to just housing coach busses.  Turn a corner, BUS, to the right, BUS! Just lines and lines of busses.  Gray busses, big busses, small busses, broken busses, moving busses... But wait, there's more!  As soon as you walk through one of the offices, you see that you are in the center of a huge bus depot.  In the center is a huge building dedicated to food, cheap clothes, and whatever services one may need.  It also doubles as a home for the homeless and those who have no idea where they are (me).  Turkish people are crazy about their busses.  Oh, and the traffic here is crazy.  If Istanbul had a sound, it'd be the car horn.

Upon arrival I go to find my life support - internet.  If you don't understand, the internet has granted me the keys to the world and knowledge.  Unfortunately my strength is also my weakness!  As soon as I enter the cafe, three people come up to me and help me put my bags down, find a seat, and ask if I want tea. 
I can't understand Turkish, but thanks to my last name being Tsay and the word for tea in Bulgarian AND Turkish is pronounced exactly the same way, I can understand that at least they are inquiring whether or not I would like some tea.  I would have loved to say yes, but I did not convert any money into Lira's - how dreadful.  So I spend an hour waiting for the exchange offices to open when it finally occurs to me that there are machines that shoot money out when you put a piece of plastic in and mash a few buttons - ATMs.  

Bingo.

By the way, the power went out so I could not charge my laptop (to continue working on my term paper), so I spent a good deal of time asking for internet Cafes and or plugs to no avail.  While doing so in this bus station city, I found an Asian in the middle of a bunch of Turkish youths.  IT was evident that either side could not communicate effectively.  The Asian needed to find a drug store, as he was walking with a limp.  He spoke English, which brought us to equal grounds - though very little.  I found out that he had attempted to go to Syria, was denied, and went to Ankara to get a visa - AND IT WORKED!  He said he rode a motorcycle in the respective countries and put his foot down; thus doing something to his ankle I assume; the need for a drugstore.



He and I spent some time learning Turkish phrases and forgetting them, all the while eating some delicious soup and bread.  The Turkish eat a lot of bread, and I mean A LOT.  I thought Bulgarians ate a lot, I did not know what to expect.

Anywho, it turns out our Asian amigo was actually from a waterlocked piece of land...yes - you guessed it.

Japan.

And he was flying back the next day to Tokyo. 

Thank goodness he lived in Okinawa - I think, if not Osaka - they weren't hit as bad.

I took the subway, met a rather tall and very slim business man who had told me it is hard to find an English speaking person in Turkey, and that he had 35,000 kg of coconuts - that's a lot of coconuts - pending in a shady transaction in Vietnam where the guy on the other end was failing to communicate, met some older Americans from Colorado who were traveling for a few months, got lost in the streets until I found a this cool place called the "Spice Bazaar"...











Trudging  through the masses and passing by the street markets, I ended up at an internet cafe in a not-so-touristy place in Istanbul; I have a knack for seeing the REAL parts of cities; landmarks are BORING.  In there, we had to communicate non-verbally and I was on my guard for people trying to rip me off; after you hear story after story, it becomes evident that you cannot trust everyone despite how much they insist on calling you "my friend" on first sight.  1.50 Lira - .75 Euro - ~ 1 USD for one hour, I'll take it!  There I organized my way to The Sydney Hostel, oriented my location through the use of backwards ISP, and found more information out about my Couchsurfing host.  I left saying one of the few phrases I had learned with my Japanese amigo that morning, "Teşekür ederim (teshz-eck-uehr ed-er-im)" - literally "I give you thanks."

INTERJECTION!  Okay so the Turkish language has these cool letters that I know barely anything about, but they're cool.

ğ - cannot be pronounced by itself
ş - sh
İ - a capital I with a dot, you can use the lowercase with English keyboards, but then for the capital, you use the next...I learned my lesson trying to log into whatever accounts I needed to the hard way!
ı - lowercase capital I - WHAT?
ç - ch

BACK TO THE STORY!

So I pay and leave the internet cafe and as soon as I am back in the streets, this man looks at me casually, then does a double take; I'm sure he's seen many Asian people walking out of an internet cafe in Turkey :)

Passing by the food stands and the mosques, I found myself taking lefts and rights, repeating routes, and eventually ending up in more touristy areas - the places are a lot nicer looking, the prices climb, and the people become extra friendly - oh and the ratio of actual Turkish people to non Turkish people just drops and you start hearing English, German, and whatever languages.  Stressed and tired from carrying my backpack, I found a Hammam - I had read about those, but that was in regards to Morocco - where I proceeded to get baked in a sauna, got scrubbed down naked, and then massaged.  Up until that point, I never received a full body massage in my life.  I've learned how to massage and have given massages, but I never knew they felt so. damn. good.  You'd be a fool to deny a massage.

Although the price was rather steep, I didn't care because I was stressing out about a whole lot of things - emotions and all.  I needed to lose consciousness for a bit and delve into a zen-like state.  Let me tell you, it worked.

Muscles relaxed and the biggest and most congenial smile, I headed towards the hostel in which Benno, my roomate, and his buddy were staying in.  A bit of backstory:  Benno is my German flatemate who studies Islamic Studies and is learning Turkish, I envy him being a polyglot.  He and his friend, Denny, planned to come to Turkey and learn the language, they would be here at the same time I would be.  We had been exchanging messages across Couchsurfing because Benno is not the type to use the internet often - so the one website where it may be useful to learn Turkish he communicates with.

I ask the reception about Benno and proceed to go up the velvet carpeted stairs.  Lo and behold, Benno and Denny just chilling by the windowside - fantastic view of the Prince Islands and Taksim.

"We've been waiting for you...we've actually been doing nothing"

We catch up and they inform me that it's quite comfortable where they've been staying, and that they have gotten to know the people at the hostel pretty well, so the need to couchsurf has been shoved aside.  They inform me that they spent probably way too much at the bars, but the experience was worth it, and that there were Brazilian girls in their room - awesome.  Lastly, Benno corrects my term paper and I become just inches away from completion - woohoo.

We head over to Kadiköy, the so-called Asian side of Istanbul.

LEDIGLICH ZUR INFORMATION - FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES

I had thought that the Asian side and European side had something to do with the culture or people.  After browsing Couchsurfing, I asked myself what the hell they really meant.  I thought that there was a greater population of Asians living on the Asian side, and a greater amount of Europeans on the European side.  I mean, Istanbul is an international city afterall!  Well the real reason lies behind the fact that Istanbul is located on two continents, Europe and Asia.  Great.

We use the ferry to get to the other side...The ferries are treated as normal public transportation - oh and there is a payment system that has to do with tokens - or Jeton.  You buy these tokens and you place them in a machine, then you are allowed to pass through.  Kind of a bitch cause there's like six different Jetons for either the trams, the subway, the trains, or the ferries - they're like plastic coins and DZ-Discovery zone currency.










We make contact with Naim, my host, establish that I am by the "big ants" and Benno and Denny leave back to the hostel on the other side of Istanbul.

I'm hungry so I buy a hamburger, head over to the ferry port because it's raining, and while the burger is in my mouth, some asshole takes a picture of me.  Kodak moment.  Turns out it's Naim!

YOU'RE ON CANDID CAMERA: SMILE! (camera adds 10 pounds :P)


We take a bus back in the direction of his flat, which was located in a region called Maltepe - very far away from the so-called "action" spots in Istanbul.

We discuss differences in cultures; the people in Turkey are much more warmer in comparison to Americans. And Americans are somewhat cultureless.  To which I can attest to, especially after being at Indiana University.  But at the same time, it's a rather bold statement.  The world kind of does follow America, so is it right to call us cultureless when everyone has "adopted" our lifestyles?  The topic is debatable and I'm open to discussion.

We go grocery shopping and I load up on any food that is Turkish.  I end up with sweets and deserts of every kind, and Turkish delight or lokum.

"Is this Turkish?"
"No"
"Is this.."


A viscious cycle.


Pre-packaged; 100% as delicious, 500% cheaper




I meet his roommates, get the tour, and we eat dinner on the ground.  Oh, and lots of bread and tea.  I love Turkish tea now and will buy one of those double pots.  Anyone is welcome for tea now!



   


Fun and games are had and the night comes, where everyone sleeps.

Patikler/Turnitsi


The next morning after breakfast -

I have fallen in love with olives and feta cheese, by the way.

- I diligently work on my term paper, then go to meet Naim at university.  He tells me that I will need my university ID for entry and informs me where I need to go.  "I'll meet you in the cafe..."

Hours pass by and I go to head to the university by foot.  I realize for a moment that I have absolutely no clue where the hell I am at.  So I go to a hotel and ask for "train station."  The so very kind people write in Turkish "how to get to train station" on a stick it note and tell me that I should show someone it if I get lost.  I end up taking a wrong turn and end up in a rather sketchy looking area.  There's trash everywhere and I realize it's like a compound for the people that pick up trash and scraps.  Uncomfortable at first, but I tell myself I am safe.  Lost, I ask for help from a man with a disfunctional eye.  He reads the sticky note and directs me towards where I need to go through non-verbal signals.  I take heed, thank him, and go.  I stop by a grocery store to buy some oranges, and on the way out I notice that they have recycling bins - something I had been looking for.

I actually try my best not to throw away plastics or papers when traveling.  I hoard the by-products and deposit them in a recycling bin whenever it is possible.  It's like a sin for me and I feel guilty whenever I throw away something recycleable - I actually picked this up in Kokomo; not in Germany.

I make it to the train station and figure out which stop is closest to the university.  I get off and ask the nearest person...

"University?"
"(unintelligible because I don't speak Turkish)"
"Üniversity?"

Bingo, so he leads me to the university and I go up to show my identification.  There are armed guards with metal detectors, an actual entry way (think of getting into a football game), and students being patted down, inspected, and so on.  The guards look at me, don't even look at my ID and let me through.  I guess being different helps sometimes!

I make way to the cafe and notice the "flocks" of girls and lack of intergender groups.  It strikes me as somewhat weird, but I assume it's cultural - at least religious.  I go inside the cafe but there's not Naim!  Not the guy with frizzy hair, not the guy with an orange jacket - he's nowhere to be found.  I see a few people with their laptops out so I know there is wireless.  I pull my brick out and send Naim a message when all of a sudden someone comes over to me and it's the devil himself!

He tells me about the "flocks" of girls and we head downstairs to where some engineering students are working on robots...

"What do you study?"
"Human Resources"
"Easy job!"






Okay so maybe the camera adds 20 pound




We meet some friends of his who are studying English.  One of them is rather frantic and eccentric.  She happens to be a feminist and has some of the most unique mannerisms I've ever seen in my life.  Anywho, she's disastified with the culture because of the societal pressures on woman.  It happens to be that the following day is also Women's day and she expresses her excitement for it.  

Conversations and food go by, at this point I feel kind of sad because I cannot communicate with everyone nor can they communicate with me.  Oh well!

Naim says to me that people are going out for Karoake tonight, so we meet some more people - Turkish girls! - and head over as a huge group.  We get to know each other with what means we have and share laughs.  The bus ride over the biggest bridge in Istanbul was rather nice, and the view - well the view doesn't exist because the damn windows were too dirty.

My first time in Taksim, oh wow.  My first wet burgers, oh delicious.

Taksim, on a Monday night, is busy.  There's a lot of people, lights, sounds, and smells.  I love the city scape. We make it to Karoake, sing and dance the whole night - Turkish songs and English.  I fell in love with Turkish rhythm afterwards - actually Balkan in general, starting from the Bulgarian songs I heard from my Bulgarian textbook.

The night ends with one of Naim's lady friends coming back with us and we all hit the hay.  Noteworthy being that I wear ear plugs to prevent any disturbances in the night.  We all know what kissing can lead to.

The following morning Naim and I make our goodbyes, and I continue to write my paper before it's time for me to meet my other host, Mehmet, who usually only wears black.

This damn paper is getting closer and closer to completeion.  Damn you Erinnerung an die Marie A.!

I head towards the meeting spot we established - Mehmet and I.  And the wind is going crazy - and I love it.  Ever since bungee jumping, I love the wind.  The exhilarating sound of wind rushing into your ears is the only thing you hear when jumping - and it's pure adrenaline and incredibly tranquil at the same time.

We go eat and we have a nice discussion about life and beliefs, and further reinforcing my whole "conversation with passion" belief.

We get to Mehmet's place and he's what exactly his profile stated, a minimalist.  With an absolute minimal need of material goods, the walls were rather bare, the floors and corners without plants, the kitchen with just utensils, and so on.  I hold a strict belief of non-materialism to the degree that I'll have wares, a house, and so on, but I can fork 'em over or ditch them; I don't invest my emotions into them unless they're really symbolic.

Mehmet and  I walk around the edge Taksim and finally settle into a really nice building next to the shore with like five different restaurants in one building, all on different levels.  Of course we take the top etage.  Turkish tea aside, we discuss traveling into Israel; Palestine to be exact; cultural settings; tensions.  He tells me he will refer me to people in the respective areas later.











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